I have additional patterns for DIY mini dress forms on Craftsy and Etsy. If you want to sew a dress form, take a look at my Mini Stuffed Dress Form pattern. I have a paper version of the half scale dress form that is a little easier to make than the craft foam dress form below. I also designed a complete set of basic block/sloper patterns to fit the paper dress form.
I have free dress patterns on Craftsy that will fit all versions of the half scale dress forms. I plan to keep adding dresses to the collection as I practice my patternmaking skills, so follow me on Craftsy if you want to be notified when I upload new patterns.
I designed and made a half-scale paper mache dress form to practice patternmaking on. I thought it came out pretty well, so I’m sharing the pattern and instructions for making one.
This is the dress form. I named her Bitsy.
Here she is with a knit cover, wearing her arms.
This miniature dress form is about 17″ tall, and her bust, waist, and hip measurements are 18″, 13.25″, and 18.25″.
The Amazon product links on this page are affiliate links. If you click on these links and purchase something, I will earn a small commission.
Materials for a torso and two arms:
• 1/16″ (2 mm) thick craft foam (4 sheets of 11″x17″ or 10 sheets of 8.5″x11″)
• High quality masking tape or box sealing tape. I discovered that thin cheap masking tape will start slipping off after a few hours, so tape up a test piece and let it sit for a day to see if it slips before you get too far into the project.
• Corrugated cardboard
• Manila folder or piece of heavy paper
• Scissors that will cut cardboard
• Mechanical pencil or very sharp pencil
• Ruler with millimeter markings
• Awl or pin
• X-Acto knife or other small razor knife
• 1″ wide paint brush
• Elmer’s Glue-All (about 7 ounces), white flour, or cornstarch for paper mache. See recipes.
• Thin hook and loop tape (Velcro) for attaching arms
• Tissue paper for final layer of paper mache (optional)
• Support stand with 0.5″ to 1.5″ diameter dowel or tube (optional)
• Artists’ sealing spray and/or paint (optional)
• The pattern. Here is the original pattern that is illustrated in the instructions below. I also have a revised pattern with an improved neck. The revised pattern does not have a hole for the neck; the neck just sits on top. I did not re-write the instructions for the revised version, but you can click here to see pictures that show how the revised neck goes together.
Get all of your pieces cut out and supplies assembled ahead of time, then try to tape up the dress form all at once and get at least a couple layers of paper mache on within a couple of days. After a while, even the best tape starts to slip off and you get sharp bends at the seams rather than smooth curves.
Print out the pattern (preferably on thick paper). The border around each sheet is 7.5″x10″. If you print it to a different scale, you will have to adjust the length of the support tube (made out of a 7.5″x11″ rectangle of manila paper – see below). Carefully cut out each piece, making sure to cut off the lines (cut on the inside edges of the lines).
Determine which side is the right side of each sheet of craft foam, and mark X’s on the wrong side. The foam will bend more easily toward the wrong side, so this is very important. I found this out the hard way when I made my first prototype. One piece was cut with the wrong side out, and it rippled and wouldn’t lie smoothly. The right side may have a smoother texture.
Trace and cut out each pattern piece from the material indicated on the pattern piece. Again, cut off your lines when you cut out the pieces so they don’t grow larger than the pattern.
• Mark all notch marks on the right side.
• On the wrong side of the front pieces, draw a line down the center front.
• Mark the center front on each bust piece.
• For the corrugated cardboard chest, waist, hip, and thigh supports, alternate the “grainline” direction for each piece.
• With a pin or awl, carefully punch a small hole to mark the center of the hole on the appropriate cardboard support pieces.
• Mark the center front and center back on each cardboard support piece.
Cut an exactly 7.5″ by about 11″ rectangle from a piece of manila folder.
Hold your support dowel or ruler across the manila paper rectangle the short way and pull up on the paper to curl it (like curling a ribbon):
Roll the manila paper around the dowel you are using for the support, gluing as you go, and being careful to keep the paper straight. Make sure you don’t use so much glue that it oozes out and glues the paper to the dowel. Tape the ends down and leave the paper on the dowel to dry.
Wrap a strip of paper around the paper tube you just made and mark the circumference.
Measure the circumference you just marked to the nearest millimeter. Divide this measurement by 6.28 to get the radius. Cut a strip of manila paper a little longer that the radius. With a pin or awl, make 2 small holes exactly the distance of the radius apart. Enlarge one of the holes until it is just big enough to get the tip of your pencil through. Use the strip of paper as a compass to mark the holes on the hip supports, thigh supports, and 3 of the waist support pieces. Cut out the holes with an X-Acto knife.
Glue the 3 support pieces together for the chest, hip, and thigh supports. For the waist support, layer 2 solid pieces then the 3 with holes and glue together. Set books or something on all of the support pieces so they dry flat. Here are all of the finished support pieces:
On the UPPER FRONT AND SIDE BACK piece, reinforce the inside with tape where indicated. Re-mark the center front line over the tape (I didn’t do this in the picture, but later wished I had).
Some general tips on taping the pieces together:
• Do the taping in a cool room. The tape and foam stretch out of shape if they get too warm.
• Use pieces of masking tape 1/4″ by 1″ or smaller.
• Butt edges together tightly
• For curved seams, place a small piece of tape on the outside at each end. Tape at any notch marks, then fill in the rest of the seam on the outside.
• Tape the inside of the seam after taping the outside.
Tape the darts in the UPPER BUST and LOWER BUST pieces. Start with a small piece of tape at each end. It may help to bend the pieces the wrong way temporarily to make sure the edges butt together tightly.
Tape UPPER BUST to LOWER BUST, matching center fronts.
Tape the breasts to the UPPER FRONT AND SIDE BACK piece. Butt the upper half of the seam flat. The undersides of the breasts should be at right angles to the body. On the underside of the breasts, tape the inside before taping the outside.
Here’s the outside:
Tape the darts in the LOWER FRONT piece.
Tape the LOWER SIDE BACK pieces to the LOWER FRONT.
Tape the UPPER FRONT AND SIDE BACK piece to the LOWER FRONT and LOWER SIDE BACK pieces at the waistline.
Tape the darts in the LOWER BACK pieces.
Tape the BACK pieces to the rest of the body. Tape the inside and outside for most of the seam, but only tape on the outside for the upper 2.5″ of the seam. This helps the foam bend more smoothly over the shoulder. Here is a view of the inside.
I forgot to do this, but I think it would help. Cut a strip of manila paper about 1/2″ wide and the length of the center back seam. Tape it on the inside of one side of the center back, matching the center of the manila paper strip to the center back line. Clip the paper where the center back line curves or bends.
Tape the shoulder seams.
Tape the ARMSCYE cardboard support pieces in place. Tape an inch or so of the center back seam near the neck. Tape the NECK OPENING piece in place.
Place the chest support just under the breasts, matching center fronts. Tape and glue the chest support piece at the front.
Remove the paper support tube from the dowel and assemble the WAIST, HIP, and THIGH supports on the tube, lining up center front and center back marks.
Test fit the assembled support pieces in place and hold the center back closed. If the foam is wrinkling in areas, reinforce these areas with tape on the inside. I had problems with the foam stretching because I was in a room that was too warm. Tape and glue the support pieces in at center front.
Apply glue to the edges of the support pieces and around the support tube, then tape the remainder of the center back seam. This part can be a bit tricky. You may want to use some stuffing to keep the body from collapsing. I tried using stuffing, then ended up taking it out.
Tape the center back seam in the NECK piece, then tape in the UPPER NECK CIRCLE and LOWER NECK CIRCLE. Bend the tabs at the bottom of the neck out.
Place the NECK on the NECK OPENING, lining them up at the center back. Tape over the tabs to hold the neck in place. Tape the center back seam in the COLLAR, then slip it over the neck.
I wasn’t quite happy with the upper bust and chest shaping. I flattened the curve in the upper breasts with large pieces of tape. I added some concavity and shaping to the chest and shoulder area with tape as well.
Now it’s time for the fun part!
Mix up your preferred variety of paper mache paste. Pour some of the mixture in a small bowl or cup, dip a paintbrush in it, and paint some on a small area of the dress form. Tear off a strip of newspaper, place it on the dress form over the paste, then brush some more paste on top. Keep overlapping pieces of paper until you have a layer done.
I applied four layers of newspaper paper mache followed by a decorative layer of tissue paper.
I tried using some plain newsprint paper, but I found that actual newspaper worked better. The newspaper starts to disintegrate when it gets wet, so it molds smoothly around curves.
• Use smaller pieces of newspaper around the curvy areas.
• Apply the newspaper strips diagonally around curvy areas.
• Tear the newspaper (don’t cut it).
• Either alternate between text and picture areas of the newspaper to keep track of where you’ve covered with each layer, or scribble all over the previous layer with a permanent marker.
• Where you have sharp bends, tear paper into shapes with “fringe”, then bend the fringe pieces over:
I had some help tearing the newspaper.
Here’s a picture of the final layer of newspaper:
Now for the arms.
After all of that it should be pretty self-explanatory.
Cut out the pieces and tape them together matching notch marks.
Tape on cardboard armscye pieces.
The large pieces of tape are to flatten areas that were too round.
Cover with paper mache.
When the paper mache is completely dry, you can spray it with artists’ sealing spray or paint it.
To attach the arms, glue thin hook and loop tape to the armscyes on the body and arm.
Here are some more views of the finished dress form with a cover and arms.
thank you–these forms are expensive, so i looked for some alternatives; i’m impressed that your method made such a professional looking form. Your directions were very clear, it must have taken a lot of work on your part! thanks!
WOW! As said above, these are pretty spendy. This looks like a great alternative.
Yay! A new craft project and one that’s very useful. Thanks for this, I’m hoping my results will be as professional looking as yours
So, I did it! But because I didn’t have the craft foam I had to adapt the method a little after a wasted week trying to use felt as a substitute FYI: Don’t!
I also used poplin for the cover so that I could maintain the centre back and front and side seam lines. I suppose you could mark them on the jersey, but I like to feel them when draping.
You are either an engineer or some kind of craft savant, because you make it look so easy, and it is challenging, but your patterns and directions were great and the results are definitely ” I can’t believe I made that”. Thanks again, and I’m looking forward to more posts.
Congratulations! I’m glad you were able to make it work.
I found your blog post – it was nice to see pictures of your version.
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Just wanted to say thanks for very generously sharing this. I had been looking to buy a half-scale model, but they were just too expensive – this is a great alternative. I’m just in the middle of making one for myself using your pattern and directions. Although not as professional looking as yours, I’m very pleased with my version. Your pattern pieces are so exact – how on earth did you manage it?
Lots of measuring! I hope this dress form works out for you.
Hi, the tutorial is very interesting! I wonder if I double the size (to a full scale) I could make a real dressform?
If you could find thicker foam it would probably work. I think it would collapse if you used the thinner foam, plus you’d have to piece it together because the sheets are too small. Check out some cosplay sites and forums to see what foam and tape they recommend for building costumes. I tried making a full scale version with my paper dress form pattern and I made a custom child size form with the same method as the fabric dress form, but I haven’t tried scaling up this one in foam. It’s possible the materials would be so expensive it wouldn’t be worth it.
Thanks Leila, I’ve a material called plastazote, and I’ll try and experiment scaling : )
What was the overall cost, and how long did it take?
I had all of the supplies on hand, so I don’t know what the overall cost would be if you had to buy everything – you’d have to look at the supply list and add up the cost of whatever items you don’t have. I think it took me most of a day to assemble, then probably a couple of hours for each layer of paper mache (with a day of dry time in between each layer).
is it possible to make this based on actual measurements of a person? if yes, how? thanks.
Altering the pattern to specific measurements would be pretty difficult. If you need it larger, you could make the dress form, then add padding around it. In Don McCunn’s book How to Make Sewing Patterns, he describes how to make a dress form from mat board that is based on a custom fit fitting shell. I think that would be an easier method to make a custom half-scale dress form.
Any possibility of getting an acrylic cut out of each of the 1/4 scale sloper patterns? It would make playing with flat pattern making a bit easier. Also what size are these based upon if blown up to full scale? Or do you know where I can purchase a set similar to your paper copies? Thank you.
The quarter scale patterns were scaled down versions of the half-scale pattern set I sell. They were originally designed for the paper dress form, so if you look at the measurements in the paper dress form pattern description and divide them by two, you will get the quarter scale measurements. The dress form is approximately a US size 8 at full scale.
If you want clear patterns, you could print them on clear plastic sheets. If you just wanted them sturdier, you could print them on heavy paper and laminate them or cover them with box sealing tape before cutting them out.
This is amazing!!! I teach Techinical Theatre and am interested in making a class set of these for my students to practice costume design. Do you have any ideas on how I could modify this or make a new pattern for male mannequins? Any ideas are appreciated.
You could draft or drape a men’s sloper pattern, which is how I started with this one. I’ve been meaning to make a male version, but I haven’t gotten to it. If you can get a commercial men’s half-scale form, you could make paper tape copies of it to make enough for a class. Here’s a fairly easy way to make copies: Cover the form with plastic wrap, cover it with about 3 layers of non-reinforced gummed kraft paper tape, cut the paper tape off, and re-tape the cut seam. If you don’t want the measurements to increase, you could make a plaster mold of the original form, cover the inside of the mold with something slippery that the tape won’t stick to (I’ve used Glad Press’n Seal with a very thin film of oil wiped over it) and build up the paper tape layers on the inside. Paper tape doesn’t shrink like paper mache does, so it works to use it on the inside of a mold.
OMG like I needed another hobby! These are absolutely adorable!! Decoupage, old paper, feedsack pieces, favorite fabrics covering these cuties are all flying thru my head at once!! Thank you sew much for your blog, it’s wonderful! Amie :0)
Hi 🙂 i was wondering, can you still pin on this dress form ? once the papier mache is dry, doesn’t it get too thick ?
The paper mache is too thick to pin into. You’d have to sew a fabric cover for it and pin into that.
I love this! I’ve been planning to make a half scale mannequin to work on historical patterning. Most of the original patterns are drawn out in books to give templates for drafting and I want to use them but full size is a waste of time and fabric. I will be purchasing your pattern on Etsy! Just curious, do you plan to do a mens version at any point? I would love to experiment with mens doublets, waistcoats, etc.
I may do a men’s version. Several people have asked about it. It might take me a while to get to it, though.
I made four of the cardboard ones for teaching workshops on patterns and draping. The first was made according to the pattern but the others were covered with only one or two layers of papier mache using Burda tissue pssper to smooth out the joins. I then used two layers of cotton batting (Heirloom brand), with a few extra shaped layers around the bottom. With a jersey cover and some specialist design tape from The London School of Fashion they are very pinnable and the design/reference lines stay in place.
Please send photos of your dress forms – thanking you.
Hola , si agrando los noldes me daran a uno de tamaño real?
If you would like to make a life size dress form, take a look at the Bootstrap Fashion dress forms you can make to any measurements you like. I wrote a blog post about them here.
Thank you for sharing your pattern so liberally, I have made three life-size dress forms from your pattern – all highly successful. I had to enlarge by 180%, 209% and 225 % to get the correct sizes.
What size corresponds to the extended patterns?
Hello, thank you so much for this tutorial ! So nice to have a half scale dress form (and so proud to make it myself!) !
What did I you use for the stand-stick to put the dress form on ?
Thank you again
In the photos here, I have the dress form on the pole from my garment steamer. My favorite stand I have tried so far for half scale dress forms is this desktop microphone stand (affiliate link). You can make it taller by replacing the inner rod with a 5/8″ dowel.
Hello, at what scale are the patterns of the two documents?
They are printed as they are, should they be enlarged or reduced?
What are the measures that were taken to do it?
Print the pattern at 100% (no scaling). The approximate finished measurements are listed at the beginning of this post, just above the materials list.
The material I use is rubber eva?
Yes, EVA craft foam.
Until what part of the body is the length of the dress?
It is a little longer than most dress forms, and ends somewhere in the mid-thigh area. You can measure down from the hip on the dress form, then double this measurement to see where it would be at full scale.
Hi, how do I print the document 100%?
You need to print the pdf with Adobe Acrobat Reader or another dedicated pdf reader, not a web browser. When you go to print, look for an option such as “actual size,” “no scaling,” or set the scale to 100%.
Hi, I think I printed it at 168%, what are the disadvantages?
I have a tape measure at ½ scale, I couldn’t use it right?
Is the dummy well designed at ½ scale?
The dress form is designed at half scale, so your half scale tape measure would not work if you printed to a different scale.
How do I do it at ¼ scale? at what percentage do I print?
sorry, for 1/3 of scale
Print at 50% for 1/4 scale. Print at 67% for 1/3 scale.
hello, is the pape mache part necessary? or is it optional? Thanks!
The paper mache is necessary. The tape gradually slips off the craft foam, so the dress form would not hold together for more than a few days without the paper mache.
Oh, Ok, Thank You!
Just wanted to say thank you! Your pattern drafting precision made up for my notch matching errors! I made one a about 1/4 scale with superglue
Hello, thank you so much for this Tutorial.
I’m having trouble making one for me and would really like your help.
I can’t seem to tape the bodice to the skirt. It keeps going out of place no matter how I try to put them together.
Plus my skirt is wider than the bodice (I can’t tell why) although that’s a different problem from the the difficulty of taping the bodice and skirt together.
Here are the things I can think of that might help:
Use high quality tape.
The tape won’t stick when it gets too warm.
Use long narrow strips of tape and place them diagonally, so you get as much contact area as possible.
Thank you for the tips.